Overview
Upper Mustang is unlike anywhere else in Nepal. Lying north of the main Himalayan range, in its rain shadow, it’s a high desert of colourful canyons, cave dwellings and fortified villages that belonged to the independent Kingdom of Lo for centuries.
The region only opened to foreign trekkers in 1992, and it still keeps a strong Tibetan Buddhist culture. The highlight is Lo Manthang, a medieval walled city full of monasteries, narrow lanes and mud-brick houses.
Why I love this trek
Walking into Mustang feels like walking back in time. The landscapes look like another planet, and the people are warm and proud of their history. It’s also one of the few treks that works well during the summer monsoon.
Good to know
- Guide required: Upper Mustang is a restricted area. You must trek with a licensed guide, in a group of at least two trekkers.
- Fitness: Moderate, but the trail is dusty and the afternoons can be very windy.
- Festival: If you come in spring, ask about the colourful Tiji festival in Lo Manthang.
- Transport: Jeeps now reach Lo Manthang, so some days can be shortened if needed.
Trek highlights
- Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the old Kingdom of Lo
- Red, ochre and grey cliffs carved by wind, dotted with ancient cave dwellings
- Centuries-old monasteries with beautiful wall paintings
- Living Tibetan Buddhist culture and traditions
- In the rain shadow of the Himalaya, so it can be trekked during the monsoon
Day-by-day itinerary
A typical plan. Every trip is flexible, so days can be added for rest, side trips or bad weather.
- Day 1
Fly Pokhara → Jomsom → Kagbeni (2,810 m)
A short flight between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, then a walk up the Kali Gandaki to the gateway village of Kagbeni.
- Day 2
Kagbeni → Chele (3,050 m)
Enter the restricted area and walk past colourful cliffs and caves.
- Day 3
Chele → Syangboche (3,800 m)
Cross several small passes with wide views over the desert landscape.
- Day 4
Syangboche → Ghami (3,520 m)
Pass chortens and the long mani wall of Ghami, one of the longest in Nepal.
- Day 5
Ghami → Tsarang (3,560 m)
Walk to Tsarang with its old palace and large monastery.
- Day 6
Tsarang → Lo Manthang (3,840 m)
Cross the Lo La and see the walled city of Lo Manthang spread out below.
- Day 7
Explore Lo Manthang
Visit the monasteries, the royal palace area and the nearby Chhoser cave dwellings.
- Day 8
Lo Manthang → Dhakmar (3,820 m)
Take the return route via Ghar Gompa, one of the oldest monasteries in Mustang, to the red cliffs of Dhakmar.
- Day 9
Dhakmar → Syangboche
Cross the Nyi La (4,010 m), the highest point of the trek, and return toward Syangboche.
- Day 10
Syangboche → Chhusang (2,980 m)
Descend toward the Kali Gandaki through dramatic eroded landscapes.
- Day 11
Chhusang → Jomsom
Back down the valley via Kagbeni to Jomsom.
- Day 12
Fly Jomsom → Pokhara
A morning flight back to Pokhara.
